The art of designing jewellery starts from inspirations, artisans designing jewellery have created symbols to represent faith, love, respect, acceptance, beauty, loyalty, royalty, using the noblest material and luxury gems Date back thousands of years ago from shells on hemp strings to tiaras and crowns. The continual discovery of new gems, precious metals and ornamental materials, combined with the advancement of tools and metallurgy, have made it possible for almost everyone to own fine jewellery. We must meet the desires of the individuals for whom it is intended. Jewellery making procedures have advanced more throughout the past three decades than any other time in history. When we started more than 50 years ago, our artisans made jewellery by wax carving. Our designers carved miniature sculptures in preparation for lost wax casting. Models were sculpted and embedded in plaster. We then burned the models from the application to create an impression. By alloying precious metals, we made the colour and karat desired, melt them by torch and thrown into the cavity with a manually wound centrifuge, Once the metal was prepared we shaped and formed it in the jewellery fabrication process. Using files, abrasives and fundamental grinding tools, our artisans ground and finished the resulting castings to prepare them for soldering and welding.
For some designers, this is done with a detailed colour painting, while others create a simple, basic sketch to use as a guideline. Computers have changed every industry, and a clear example of this is the technology being used in CAD jewellery design. As jewellers who have designed and created jewellery for over 50 years, we can ensure the computer did not replace the jeweller. It merely made it possible for artisans to express themselves with more clarity than ever before, but will never replace the need for skilled hands who cast, polish, solder, weld the metals, or the stone setters. These work still requires artistic vision, paired with the same knowledge of materials and understanding of jewellery fabrication procedures where only the tools have improved during the time. Many of today’s artisans will create a computer rendering through CAD jewellery design, and some work with a visual image in their mind, entering in a world of computer design and new generation machinery where the sculptors whom once worked in wax, are now using keystrokes and a mouse to transform ideas into works of art. Through CAD jewellery design, skilled artisans create original models in a virtual world. Once completed, their jobs are milled from wax, grown in resin with high tech equipment driven by complex software, or load the file in a CNC machine to replicate it, for example, in the last generation 5-axis CNC machine.
Mould Making / Wax Carving
In mould making, we begin the process by moulding an original piece using a soft material— typically wax, clay, or plaster. Once this is done, the new art piece is then ready to be moulded. The art piece, or model, is placed into a flexible material that will shape the mould, which is usually enveloped by a tough exterior. When the moulds are separated, an impression of the original art piece remains. From there, a material—such as clay—is poured into the image, creating an exact copy of the new art piece. A thin, interior layer of the second model is carefully removed, which provides a path for the metals to fill the mould. The thickness of the final art piece will be determined by the size of the gap between these two moulds.
After closing the moulds, hot wax is then poured in between the moulds, resulting in a clay figure that is completely covered in resin. A small system of vents and paths that are carved by the artist allows for the hot wax to leave the mould after settling. This allows for the gold or metallic material to flow through the mould.
Until recent years and the advance of CAD jewellery design and 3D printers, most fine jewellery was carved from wax. Using files, blades, to cut and shave wax and transform a simple block of wax into an exact model of the fine jewellery to be created, The roughcast item will undergo jewellery polishing and the various stages of jewellery fabrication before the final stone setting.
Precision CNC Moulds
For high volume or dimension-specific orders, jewellery manufacturers often use the Computer-Aided Design (CAD) process, which is when a designer creates a jewellery design on computer software along with specifications and exact dimensions for the piece. Once the initial design work is done, a prototype model is created. Rather than sculpting the story individually, this prototype may be created using a 3D printer that can go directly to casting.
For CAD designs, moulds go into computer numeric control (CNC) machines for production, similar to other mass-produced metal goods. Appropriately referred to as CNC moulds, these tools are durable and may produce a wide range of custom jewellery.
The CNC moulds also adhere to strict design specifications. Additionally, the CAD process allows versatility and freedom to edit designs without compromising materials before production.
Silver, Gold and platinum casting procedures differ greatly. Platinum melts at such extreme temperatures that specialised skills, equipment and plaster investments are needed. Gold casting has a wide range of karats and colours, and the alloy combinations dictate that each has temperature cycles and processes that are unique to the metal.
Most jewellery casting is done through the lost-wax process, whereby models created through wax carving, growing, or printing are encased in a plaster-like medium known as investment. The investment is heated to extreme temperatures to incinerate the material, creating an impression of the desired form. The intricate cavity is then filled by precious molten metal.
Burn Out Cycle:
Wax models of resin type materials are connected to one another on a tree-like form configuration. The alignment of the models is arranged to allow gold or platinum to flow through the “tree” with minimum turbulence or resistance. The “tree” is then suspended inside a metal flask and filled with plaster slurry. Once filled, air bubbles and pockets are. After hardening and curing, flasks containing invested models are placed in specialized ovens, where the wax is incinerated.
Centrifugal Jewelry Casting:
Centrifugal jewellery casting uses the force of a centrifuge to create the necessary inertia to throw gold into the hollow cavity left behind. After burn out, the flask is placed in a cradle on a swing arm in which gold or platinum will be melted. When the precious metal is at a critical temperature, the centrifuge is released and metal is slung from the crucible at high velocity.
Vacuum Casting Jewelry:
The principal behind vacuum casting is very similar to the centrifugal casting filling the cavities before cooling. The equipment used for vacuum casting requires the flask be loaded in a sleeve within a chamber to enable a forcible vacuum to inhale molten metal into the investment.
Continuous Casting (seamless tubing making):
In the most basic terms, we start our manufacturing process by making seamless tubing through a combination of hot extrusion (pushing a billet of metal through an orifice to produce the tube) and cold drawing (pulling that tube through draw plates fitted with tooling and dies to achieve various ring diameters). This process works well, and when we reviewed our procedures, we found it to be very effective and greatly improved tarnish resistance over the soldered type, with no joint. Asymmetrical microstructure, uniform hardness, and high dimensional accuracy, these rings are a much stronger alternative.
Jewellery Soldering / Welding
Using a torch and skilled hands, jewellers and model makers solder miniature pieces of gold and platinum together with accuracy. The skills needed to freehand support a miniature wire, while heating it to the molten point without melting or damaging other areas, the jeweller controls the heat with can solder a seam that is strong and undetectable.
Another side, jewellery welding does not involve the use of solders. The metal of equal property is fused to itself with extreme temperature applied to an acute area until the development of lasers to fabricate new product and perform laser jewellery repair. Most complicated jewels will be both soldered and welded. With the fabrication completed, the item moves to stone setting and polishing.
Is a challenge of securing diamonds and gemstones in the least invasive way. The objective when the stone setting is to use the minimum amount of material necessary to secure the gem, in top of that the setter must provide maximum durability while the gemstone jewellery is being worn. We can choose from many methods of stone setting, each intended to present gemstones differently. Some stone setting is designed to raise and expose a single stone, while others types offer clusters of gems to be viewed as a group, in other cases the setting work is intended to protect a fragile gem from excessive wear.
Here are a few examples of the types of stone setting used in modern jewellery:
The prong setting is familiar to almost everyone due to its used in engagement rings, using a wide range of prongs designs to fit every shape and size gem in existence; the most typical being the traditional four or six prong configurations with different styles, from trellis designs to baskets. The elevation of prong-set stones allows light to enter from the top and sides, and it is unquestionably the most popular method of the stone setting for individual featured gems, trying to faceted stones in the proudest possible way.
Bead setting is primarily used to display sequences of small diamonds in strands or continuous rows. The emergence of CAD jewellery design has made it possible to create less labour-intensive styles. With miniature beads created by computer-automated design, it is now possible to create fins bead set jewellery. new technology enables designers to position precision bead can now be done in half the time.
In pave setting, diamonds are set in fields rather than rows or strands, setting diamonds typically cover a broad expanse and share beads to create a diamond-encrusted appearance.
Bezel set stones are seated in thin strips of precious metal, formed to the shape and size of a stone. Once seated, gems and semiprecious stones are placed inside. The metal strip is then trimmed to a depth that marginally overlaps the gem. Using smooth metal tools, artisans burnish the metal by rubbing it with force to roll it over the edge of stones in Channel Setting
Channel setting is achieved when a jeweller uses a rotary cutter to create a seat in precious metal that is grooved to the size of a gem. Once the setting wall is prepared, the stone is carefully levelled into its seat. Using a precision handheld impact hammer, the precious metal is carefully chased over girdle to secure the stone at the desired angle.
It enables designers to create jewellery featuring stones that lie flush in the surrounding metal. This can be done with a single large stone seated in a broad, level surface; however, this form of stone setting is most often used to set smaller stones to create a spangled look.
Polishing begins with rough precious metal forms created during jewellery casting, using a wide array of machines and handheld tools to remove uneven or rustic surfaces from gold, platinum or silver, using wheels and bits charged with abrasive compounds the polishers shape and contour surfaces and the metal will begin to take on a shine Once the desired polish is achieved, various textures and finishes can be applied to specified surfaces of jewellery to add character or enhance the design.
When all of the jewellery polishing is complete, and all surfaces have been thoroughly cleaned, a jeweller can apply any chemical finishes needed such as rhodium plating before the polishing team brings out the shine and lustrous finishing.
CNC seamless tube ring making:
To manufacture wedding rings from the extruded tube, we were using the standard method of cutting identical size rings (blank rings) with an automatic saw from the end of the tube and shaping them with CNC lathes, previously loaded with the CAD design to replicate, and this is the last technology in rings manufacture, have so many advantages, not only because mixed with the use of seamless tube to produce the rings, with all the advantages it has, CNC machine allows a level of quality and accuracy that is not possible with the manual manufacturing process, provides a high degree of repeatability and positional accuracy, allows users to manufacture many different items, materials and products with the highest level of efficiency, saving time and maximise the production output to ensure the best delivery time to our customers. More comments here?
The purpose of inspection process is to verify that all of the finished products are free from any defects, not only in the final stage of production and before delivery, must control de quality on each process, from raw material, through casting and polish, ending in packaging due to detect production anomalies on the right stage to make possibly find the suitable solution on time.